Santiago, the capital of Chile, is one of my most favorite cities in South America. The district I stayed and toured the most during my visit, has huge London planetrees (platanus acerifolia, 法国梧桐) planted along the streets. The scent of these trees, especially at night, reminded me of my hometown Shanghai and that first moment of smelling the familiar scent clicked me with Santiago!
Santiago - A City Gripped by Protests in 2019
After 2019 Bolivian protests against president electoral protests, here I was in Santiago Chile, where the Chilean protests were even worse and much more violent compared to its neighbor Bolivia. Santiago, being the center of the storm, were pretty much destroyed. At the night of my arrival at 21:00, there was a curfew at 20:00 so basically no public transportation was available. I was supposed to take a subway from the airport shuttle station somewhere in the city center, but the subway was closed at 20:00. So I was desperately waiting at a bus stop on the major street (Avenida Providencia) carrying 23kg of my huge backpack and my computer back in the front. After a while, a very kind gentleman approached me asking where I was going and he told me nobody knew if the bus would come. ‘Why didn’t you take a taxi?’, the gentleman asked. I told him that my hostel was only 5 subway stops away and the taxi driver asked for a ridiculous price for it! He helped me to find a reasonable shared taxi around the bus stop! Thank you, Sir! So finally, I arrived my Santiago home, Aji Hostel before midnight.
I thought year of 2019 was pretty a bad year for traveling. Now in June 2020 looking back, the world was not that crazy at all in 2019! However, at that time, I was very disappointed visiting Chile at a bad time. There were strikes almost everywhere in the country. Public services were closed at its major cities, long distance bus services were on-and-off. Originally I planned to travel all the way down to the tip of Southern Chile. Due to the protest, I had to change my plan and decided to skip most of the southern Chilean spots. Also, during my four-day stay in Santiago, most of the parks, museums, stores and restaurants were closed. Armed police were packed along main streets with sirens on at nights. The demonstrators smashed shop windows, painted slogans on almost all beautiful historical buildings and statues in the downtown area. Protests were at the main plaza (Italian Plaza) every afternoon and night! The Italian Plaza happened to be on my way back to hostel after most of my city tours. So there I experienced after-effect of tear gas for the first time of my life.
The military vehicle with water cannons to push back the protesters at Italian Plaza in the afternoon. The night was even worse.
The unfortunately ‘tattooed’ art museum and statues in downtown Santiago.
Stores with broken windows and front doors. Oh, my poor Santiago downtown!
This was what would happen at night. Protestors matched along main street (Avenida Providencia) and set fire to block the streets.
While the protest were against inequality and high living cost in Chile. OK, I understand this. However, what was this related to ‘eating meat’?! I saw ‘Go Vegan’ slogan planted on the buildings every 2-5 blocks?! I had to hide the truth of being a meat lover in Santiago for the sake of my own safety?!
Santiago - The Hidden Beauty during The Protests
Although things were very crazy in Santiago, I was still able to explore some of its charm and beauty.
Barrio Manuel Montt
My hostel was in Barrio Manuel Montt, a very beautiful district with London planetrees lined streets, beautiful historical buildings, fancy bars and restaurants. After a quick shower, I was ready for a late-night food hunting at 0:30 a.m. Yes, I knew it sounded crazy but I was starving and the front desk told me the neighborhood was safe from the protests and there should be something open at the nightlife area which was only minutes away!
So there I was on the quiet street with dimmed streets lights. Suddenly, I was hit by a familiar scent sent by the cool breeze. I did not know what scent was that but it made me so happy and reminded me walking in the French colony district in Shanghai (if you never visit Shanghai, this district should be on the top of your Shanghai itinerary!!!) in the cool summer night! Immediately, I wanted a drink! Friends, I seldom drank on my travel for safety concerns but still I wanted a DRINK so badly!!!
Fortunately, the bars were still open! So after a short stop at a Chilean fast food restaurant. I found myself a fancy bar sipping a beer of the night on their rooftop with of course good music! The one of the best moments in Chile!
The next day, I figured out what made the familiar scent of home? That was the London planetrees! It had been years since I left those old friends! They were everywhere around my hostel! Later I found, those trees were planted in many districts of the city. I indulged myself in the pleasant scent of London planetrees in Santiago! This was probably the reason I was in love with the city.
Santiago Metropolitan Park
The Santiago Metropolitan Park is located between four communes of Santiago – Huechuraba, Providencia, Recoleta and Vitacura – and covers around 722 hectares, making it the largest urban park in Chile and one of the largest in the world. It also maintains 16 Urban Parks distributed throughout 13 communes in Santiago, a total area of almost 150.1 hectares.
Although during the protests, most of museums and parks were closed. Nobody was certain if anything was open or closed. The only way to find it out was just go there! I was very lucky to be able to visit Santiago Metropolitan Park on a peaceful Sunday morning. It was a great self-guided city tour day.
Chilean National Zoo
My first stop of the day was the Chilean National Zoo, a home to thousands of animals. Although I had opportunities observing many wild animals during my South American trip, this zoo was still wroth of visiting and I had a lot of fun there.
After the Uyuni tour, I still enjoyed visiting the elegant (but a little stinky) flamingos.
Other selected beautiful and cute animals at the zoo.
Sanctuary on San Cristóbal Hill
Located on the top of Cerro San Cristóbal, there locates the white statue of the Virgen de la Inmaculada Concepción and a small chapel for praying.
I decided to take a special mode of transport, Funicular train, from the zoo to get to the top of the hill.
This was the view from the Funicular train.
At the top of the hill, there was some religious event going on. I had tasted Sacramental bread (host?) for the first time of my life. Thank you, God!
And finally, the statue of the Virgen de la Inmaculada Concepción.
A Hike Down of The Hill
One could choose to take the cable car to get down the hill. I decided to take a hike back. There were lots of people biking along the road, I meant serious bikers with all professional equipment and their fancy road bikes.
On the way down, you will be able to have a good panoramic view of the city. In the center of the photo is the Gran Torre Santiago, the tallest building in Latin America! You can also visit there. I was not interested in going to tall modern buildings rather the mountains, so I did not visit there.
I also had the opportunities passing through several other parks, fancy neighborhoods and part of Providencia district on my way back to the hostel. The little hike/walk was from the top of Cerro San Cristóbal, was a total of only 4.5 km.
Santiago City Walking Tour
In most of tourist cities, you will find ‘free’ city walk tours (not really free, you pay a tip at the end of the tour). I think it is a great way to explore the city from a little bit of locals’ eye and learn some history and information of the city. So I signed up my city tour with Tours4Tips.
Again, due to the situation (I mean the protests), we had an uncommon walking itinerary around Santiago downtown.
First, we visited Valpo, a neighborhood with beautiful street arts! Most of the houses, bars and restaurants were decorated with unique street arts on their buildings. Another chic neighborhood for nightlife.
Then we continued to neighborhood at the foot of Cerro San Cristóbal. Peaceful streets with plenty of bars and restaurants. Santiago seems to be a city good for nightlife, I mean during non-protest times.
Santa Filomena church in Korean neighborhood (I don’t know exactly if this is a Korean town, but there are lots of Korean grocery stores and restaurants around)? I planned to come back for a Korean dinner, however it was a little bit far from my hostel and did not make it that night.
Then we continued to Mercado la Vega, a huge market for fresh veggie, fruits, flowers and a BIG market food courts for locals. We by-passed a Chinatown. Yes, after the Korean town, it’s time for Chinese friends!
Then the busy real market, with a handsome veggie guard, the cute market cat :)
And finally, I learnt the correct Spanish spelling of a very delicious fruit in South America, chirimoya!
The tour ended at Mercado Central, a seafood market. But mostly for tourists and filled with seafood restaurants with waiters holding the menu searching for their potential customers. The building architecture was nice to visit. While Chile’s seafood industry ranked the sixth largest in the world, the seafood market was so tiny.. Later after the tour, I came back for a taste of Chilean seafood meal, again very disappointed. The fish was very fresh but the taste was just OK… Um, maybe I was at a wrong place for seafood tasting.
And the touristic seafood restaurant at Mercado Central. This plate costed 9900 CLP (~ 12.5 USD) among the cheaper options on their menu.
Aji Hostel
Normally, I do not have a description on the hostels I have stayed. But this one, Aji Hostel, was so special! Breakfast and dinner are included?! Also, it was located one block away from the subway station on Avenida Providencia and close to most of the tourist spots. Lastly, its neighborhood was very quiet and nice, with London planetree everywhere! Sorry for my biased opinion here.
For my four-night stay at a 4-bed female room with ensuite bathroom, it only costed me about 40 USD in total with breakfast and dinner included! A lovely old-house painted pinky was my hostel in Santiago.
While the facilities were not that modern, it was clean and comfy. A view from my cute room in the attic.
Good breakfast and simple dinner samples. To be honest, dinner was not enough for me. But it was better than nothing, right?
Food in Santiago
I was not quiet satisfied with the restaurants in San Pedro de Atacama. Sorry, I was wrong. At least, there I had the plenty of choices open to me. Now in Santiago, options were limited…I could not have a say in food and restaurants for the Chilean capital.
The Food
Midnight fast food grab, the Chilean hot dog on my first night of arrival. Cost: 2500 CLP (~ 3 USD)
The seafood plate at Mercado Central. Cost: 9900 CLP (~ 12.5 USD)
The Japanese ramen. Cost: 9600 CLP (~ 12 USD). Not as good as real Japanese ramen, but I was very happy to have some Asian dishes after a long time (since Sucre)!
The the breakfasts and dinners from Aji Hostel.
McDonald’s burger at Santiago airport! Again, not many choices available at the airport terminal. But the taste of American burger surprisingly delighted me?! Cost: 2180 CLP (~ 2.7 USD)
The Drinks
Jugo de Huesillos: a must try!
Mote con huesillo is a traditional Chilean summer-time drink often sold in street stands or vendor carts. It is a non-alcoholic beverage consisting of a sweet clear nectar-like liquid made with dried peaches (huesillo) cooked in sugar, water and cinnamon, and then once cooled, mixed with fresh cooked husked wheat (mote). The sweet clear nectar is usually made with sugar, but can also be supplemented or replaced with molasses.
Cerveza (beer)
For some reason, the city triggered my crave for beer almost every night…Other than the first night at a real bar, I found a small restaurant very close to my hostel and the owner and staff were from my hometown Shanghai. I went there two nights in a row having Chilean beer under the London planetrees and chatting with them whenever they had the breaks serving the customers.
Log
Santiago stay November 9 to November 13, 2019.
Next stop: Mendoza, Argentina. (Flight to Mendoza at 18:15, Nov. 14, 2019)
This post was published at Phoenix on June 24, 2020.